Annet Joseph / SPF
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric using needle and thread. It's best done on natural fabrics like silk or cotton that have a tight weave. This craft reflects our rich cultural heritage and comes in various styles influenced by different Indian cultures. Indian embroidery is admired worldwide and includes numerous styles that vary by region and the types of clothing.
Types of Embroidery
Embroidery designs depend on the fabric's texture and the type of stitch used. Sometimes, other materials like pearls, beads, stones, and sequins are added. Today, embroidery can be done with many different colored threads. Basic hand embroidery stitches include running stitch, chain stitch, cross stitch, and satin stitch. Surface embroidery techniques are cost-effective. Indian embroidery is particularly notable for its unique stitches, fabrics, and colors. While India boasts a variety of beautiful embroidery techniques, we've highlighted a few that have inspired designers for generations.
1. Chikankari:
The word chikan comes from the Persian word chikaan meaning drapery. Chikankari embroidery is said to have originated as a court craft, during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jehangir, by his wife Noor Jahan. The Fabric used are pure, un-dyed white shazaada cotton or Dhaka ki mulmul, both sourced from Dhaka, Bangladesh. The katcha daagha, the thread used for the embroidery, was also white and procured from Calcutta, India or Dhaka.
Crafted on cotton, linen, pure georgettes, Silk and chiffons, these light and wearable creations do not stick to your body and allow your skin to breathe in the oppressive heat. The exquisite needlework has made way for diffusion wear.
2. Kantha:
Kantha Embroidery is a traditional folk art of Bengal and was significantly used in Kantha Quilt. The craft revived worn-out textiles or rags as new. The embroidery not only depicts kantha stitch & designs but also expresses creativity, patience, imagination. The objective behind Kantha embroidery was to utilize old clothes, which the word ‘Kantha’ literally means.
3. Phulkari:
Phulkari embroidery from Punjab is the second most favorite thing after sarsoon ka saag, from the region. Phulkari consists of flower work motifs. The stitches in Phulkari are embroidered on back side of the cloth so that the design takes place in front. Hand spun or natural dyed khadi cloth is majorly used for Phulkari embroidery. Simple embroidered dupattas made for everyday use are called Phulkaris. This unique embroidery was traditionally practiced by women in their free time.
4. Kutch:
The Kutch Embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This embroidery with its rich designs has made a notable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. The embroidery, practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads.
5. Kashidakari:
Kashidakari is the most famous embroidery of the Kashmir valley. The term ‘kashidakari’ literally means ‘needle work’. The origin of this craft is not clear but according to various legends it was introduced by Sufi saints from Persia in the valley. The motifs are inspired from their geographical surroundings and what the artists saw around them. They are inspired from the birds such as parrots, woodpeckers and kingfishers; the floral motifs are inspired from lotus, lily, saffron flower, iris and tulips. An important motif in the Kashmir region is the chinar leaf.
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